Imagine a world where your clothes are made of pixels rather than textiles.
One in three women considers a piece of clothing “old” after one or two wears¹.
Fast fashion is popularizing the idea that great style is synonymous with new outfits. Social media reinforces this mentality, with one in six young people claiming they won’t rewear an outfit if it’s been seen online².
Auroboros is the first fashion house to merge science and technology with physical haute couture, as well as digital-only ready-to-wear. Creating a romantic premise for the near-future, our work stands for innovation, sustainability and immersive design.
We seek to evolve the luxury industry into deeper dimensions – redefining how we imagine, design and affect clothing consumption. With this, we are shaping new discussions around the idea of a utopian future and its relationship to the human body.
Auroboros is a member of artists at The Sarabande Foundation: Founded by Lee Alexander McQueen.
Education, research and development are fundamental principles at Auroboros. We are proud and continue to be affiliated with numerous internationally-renowned educational establishments.
Via lectures and workshops, Auroboros encourages and educates the next generation of creatives to rethink and challenge the future. For enquires, please contact us.
In these turbulent times for the industry, many see digital innovation as a potential saviour – that is why we teamed up with our partner LiveArea to gain more insights for the NetComm Community …
In these turbulent times for the industry, many see digital innovation as a potential saviour – that is why we teamed up with our partner LiveArea to gain more insights for the NetComm Community …
Will customers buy a 60.000$ Rolex by using the same device they buy dog’ food with?That’s the challenge for luxury marketers today. Innovation in luxury is changing trends, and luxury itself has been (already) transformed by technologies. Augmented reality, data analysis and the implementation of a brand-new user experience in e-commerce: the pandemic has confirmed and accelerated the ongoing trends, some say as much as five years. Nevertheless, scarcity is a key factor in luxury, and hardly pairs with the web, traditionally perceived as the land of abundance. How are brands supposed to cope with these challenges? “A reputation built over decades is no longer enough to guarantee future success” says Benoit Soucaret, Group Creative Director at LiveArea, an award-winning global customer experience and e-commerce agency. The problem, Soucaret analyses, is “no one wants to be compared via two webpages online, price for price. Luxury remains an incredibly lucrative market. And, unsurprisingly, its brands remain reluctant to push quickly into e-commerce for fear of eroding the exclusivity of the experience. That has to change”. Ways of doing so include a mixture of online and offline experiences which, borrowing a fortunate word coined by the Italian philosopher Luciano Floridi, we could call “onlife”. Data are central in this process, aimed at knowing every single customer and personalizing his visit, be it in a shop or via the web. There are, obviously, legal implications that must be diligently evaluated, above all for business operating in different countries. Luxury marketing in the 2020s requires the whole value chain to be re-shaped. From production to logistic to sales. And, last but not least, must engage Millenials and Generation Z. How? With their buzzwords: “Mobile, social media, inclusion, sustainability”. Read the full interview to Benoit Soucaret and get your FREEE eBook
Gabriela Hearst has partnered with EON, which is a leading digital identity platform for fashion and apparel – connecting products throughout their lifecycle by unlocking visibility, traceability, and insight through a QR code. The goal is to provide customers with more transparency by sharing the supply chain and giving them access to learn about their garments journey.
“One thing is for sure – [fashion] needs transparency. Even for myself, who is passionate about the subject, it was hard to gather this information.” – Gabriela
The fashion industry is going through a somewhat painful transition from analog to digital, induced by the coronavirus pandemic and the relentless rise in global temperatures, triggering climate change an increasing pressure on the industry to become more sustainable. To continue to trade in the face of these challenges, fashion brands have adopted digital methods of prototyping, thereby reducing waste and lead times and streamlining physical production post-lockdown. While such global brands adapt, other fashion industry visionaries are reinventing. Viewing the current fashion industry challenges within the context of shifting consumer desires and online behaviors, two fashion entrepreneurs are devising an entirely new business model for fashion consumption, with no physical outputs. The model is the culmination of the learnings of two fashion entrepreneurs who spearheaded Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Kyiv, Ukraine, propelling emerging fashion designers from around the globe into international boutiques via their B2B wholesale fashion showroom, More Dash.
From their industry vantage point, founders Daria Shapovalova and Natalia Modenova have witnessed a rapidly changing fashion market since launching the More Dash wholesale showroom, headquartered in Paris, in 014. In their first B2C fashion venture in 2019 they launched More Dash pop up shops in the US (firstly in LA) as an AB test for this hypothesis: there is a significant demand for fashion ‘consumption’ for the sole purpose of digital content creation, meaning that purchasing and physical ownership for these ‘consumers’ is at least partially redundant.
An Open Access Journal Edited by Taylor and Francis
DEADLINE FOR EXTENDED ABSTRACT: JANUARY 15, 2021 (750 words)
Global fashion, as part of the cultural and creative industries (CCI), represents a rich and advanced manifestation of contemporary culture and simultaneously embodies a complex and layered set of sociotechnical relationships. On one hand, fashion is a sophisticated expression of society widely perceived as a “cultural medium”, and pervading and informing social practices and dynamics. On the other hand, fashion is one of the oldest manufacturing sectors in Western countries, contributing to globalization processes, producing various deleterious effects through concurrent processes of cultural homogenization and impoverishment, as well as deeply affecting the quality of the environment to the point where today it is the second most polluting industry in the world.
These two dimensions of fashion are currently colliding. The public has begun to demonstrate heightened awareness and new sensibilities have begun to change customers’ attitudes toward consumption choices, thus increasing the demand for transparency on the part of commercially visible brands.
The COVID-19 pandemic has quickened ongoing transformation and overturned pre-existing commitments. The global fashion system—comprising both its facets of production and consumption along with its negative social and environmental consequences—is being critically questioned even by authoritative figures at the center of some of the most iconic and successful labels.
Given these circumstances, this Special Issue strives to take advantage of this momentum and to link several disciplinary domains with the objective of exploring the organizational, technological, and sociocultural dimensions of transformation.
The Special Issue welcome paper proposals addressing the following topics:
1. REDESIGNING THE FASHION SYSTEM, focusing on the organizational dimensions of fashion and its systemic transformation.
2. INNOVATING FASHION PRODUCTS AND PROCESSES, focusing on innovation and technological transformation of fashion products and processes.
3. RESHAPING FASHION CULTURES focusing on the sociocultural dimension of fashion and its transformation towards sustainability.
January 15, 2020: Submission of extended abstracts (approximately 750 words)
February 12, 2021: Notification of invited papers
April 16, 2021: Submission of full paper drafts (approximately 8.000 words)
May 21, 2021: Completion of first round of peer review
June 30, 2021: Submission of revised drafts
July 15, 2021: Completion of second round of peer review
Subject of the mail: SSPP – SUSTAINABLE REDESIGN OF THE GLOBAL FASHION SYSTEM
Please indicate in the mail which of the 3 topics your proposal is addressing (see above)
OPEN ACCESS POLICY FOR THIS ISSUE
This Special Issue of Sustainability: Science, Practice, and Policy will be an open-source publication and authors of invited papers will be able to participate without the need to pay an author publication fee (APC). All contributions will be sponsored by the Fashion in Process Research Laboratory (FiP) at the Politecnico di Milano which is a neutral platform for knowledge exchange and dissemination.
Full details on the call are in the attached file.
Wearable technology has become pretty popular in the last few years. Some products, like FitBit fitness trackers and Apple Watches, have become very popular. Others, like Google Glass, didn’t enjoy such success. One of the things that many people are beginning to note is that wearable tech isn’t always the most fashionable, and often isn’t particularly feminine. Some brands are already starting to address this. For example, Fitbit, one of the leading fitness tracker brands, has the Luxe Collection, so you can turn your Fitbit Flex 2 into a pendant or bangle. As technology and fashion options progress, there will be more wearable tech out there that looks good and does the job it’s designed to do, from fitness trackers to headphones. Tech will also get smaller too, so it will be easy to put tech into almost anything.
3D PRINTING ACCESSORIES AND MORE
3D printing is now cheaper than it has ever been, which makes it possible for almost anyone to own a 3D printer in their home. People use them to be creative and to save money on lots of things too. With a 3D printer, you can potentially find something you want to buy and simply print it out. Experts in tech and fashion are suggesting that in the future, not only will you be able to print things like jewellery and accessories, but you’ll also be able to make your own clothes too. 3D printing is allowing people to create new fabrics with properties like anti-wrinkling too.
Fashion and Substainability. (Photo Credit: Miss Owl)
DO YOU HAVE A CLEAR FASHION CONSCIENCE?
If you’re like us, you probably spent some of your Covid lockdown time cleaning out your closets (and if you didn’t you should). How many of you have a clear fashion conscience? Was every purchase justified? Or, did you discover that some of the clothes and shoes in your closet you never wore, not even once? Or maybe you wore them only twice? Well, it’s time to take stock of your buying habits and your carbon footprint. To get a clear fashion conscience, next time you’re thinking of making purchase, ask yourself, “am I doing all I could to help”?
THE POLLUTION INDUSTRY
The fashion industry is one of the biggest culprits in causing pollution and damage ing our earth. By 2030, it is predicted that the industry’s water consumption will increase by 50 percent to 118 billion cubic meters (or 31.17 trillion gallons). Its carbon footprint will increase to 2,791 million tons and the amount of waste it creates will hit 148 million tons, according to The Fashion Law website (TFL).
Today more than ever, designers, brands and retailers are looking for ways to reduce their negative impact on the environment. Brands are embracing sustainable cotton initiatives to: reduce water, energy and chemical use; new dyeing technology to reduce water consumption by up to 50 percent; as well as numerous energy and chemical saving schemes throughout the supply chain. In the UK, the result of this work is percolating through to retailers, with a reduction in the carbon and water footprints per ton of clothing of 8 percent and 7 percent respectively since 2012, according to TFL.
The movement towards eco fashion is growing quickly. Followers of the movement believe that the fashion industry has an obligation to place environmental, social, and ethical improvements in their practices at every level of the supply chain. One of the goals of sustainable fashion is to create a thriving ecosystem and enriched communities through its activity. Some examples of this include: prolonging the lifecycle of materials; increasing the value of timeless garments; reducing the amount of waste; and reducing the harm to the environment created as a result of producing clothing.
Why Sustainable in Fashion Matters. (Photo Credit: Sustainable Fashion Academy)
Textile designers around the world are looking for innovative techniques to produce fabrics in a sustainable matter. There are a few pioneering companies that are creating innovative textiles, such as biodegradable glitter and fabrics created from seaweed. Here are a few companies that are making a big difference.
The company Algiknit produces textile fibres extracted from kelp, a variety of seaweed. The extrusion process turns the biopolymer mixture into kelp-based thread that can be knitted or 3D printed to minimize waste. The final knitwear is biodegradable and can be dyed with natural pigments in a closed loop cycle.
BioGlitz produces the world’s first biodegradable glitter. Based on a unique biodegradable formula made from eucalyptus tree extract, the eco-glitter is fully biodegradable, compostable and allows for the sustainable consumption of glitter without the environmental damage associated with micro plastics.
Flocus produces natural yarns, fillings and fabrics made from kapok fibers. The kapok tree can be naturally grown without the use of pesticides and insecticide in arid soil not suitable for agricultural farming, offering a sustainable alternative to high water consumption natural fiber crops such as cotton.
Frumat uses apples to create a leather-like material. Apple pectin is an industrial waste product which can be used to create sustainable materials that are completely compostable, while still being durable enough to create luxurious accessories. The leathers can be dyed naturally and tanned without chemically intensive techniques.
DriTan is taking sustainable steps towards water-free leather manufacturing. The technology was developed by ECCO Leather and uses the moisture present in the hides as a key step in their tanning process. This innovative technology will change the leather industry and save 25 million liters of water a year. This technique also minimizes the discharge of waste water and the use of chemicals.
Mylo is a sustainable leather grown from mycelium, which has its root structure in mushrooms. In nature, mycelium grows underground in soil, forming networks of threads that help recycle organic matter on the forest floor, while providing nutrients to plants and trees. The threads interweave and self-assemble themselves into a 3D matrix that can spread for miles. Bolt Threads Mylo material looks like hand-crafted leather and shares leather’s warm touch and suppleness. Mylo can be produced in days, without the need for animal hides or the toxic chemicals used in the production of synthetic leathers.
Recycrom is turning waste into colors by building on its “Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle” mission. Recycrom is a patented, sustainable range of synthetic colored dyestuff powders made from 100% recycled textile cotton waste and textile scraps from used clothing and manufacturing waste. The dyes utilize eco-sustainable inputs without using chemical dyes and harming the environment. When dyed using Recycrom colors, the fabrics have a washed-out and natural look that complements today’s current fashion trends. Brands can collaborate with the inventors at Officina+39 to make Recycrom custom dyes using a manufacturers’ own scraps/textile waste.
THE ECO MOVEMENT IS GROWING
While creating sustainable textiles is only one step to creating an eco-friendly brand, it’s refreshing to see so many fashion companies looking for ways to make a global impact on the environment. Stella McCartney has been ahead of the movement and has always produced her collections in an ethical manner. Today fashion brands have plenty of choices to reduce their carbon footprint.
Stella McCartney’s Spring 2020 Ad Campaign. (Photo Credit: Stella McCartney)
From biodegradable glitter to fabrics made from seaweed or orange fibres – these are the next generation of fashion innovators. Algiknit, BioGlitz, circular.fashion, FLOCUS, Frumat, Good on You, Mango Materials, Nano Textile, Orange Fibre, PAPTIC, PlanetCare, Provenance, Reverse Resources, Scalable Garment Technologies and Style Lend are brands working hard to transform the fashion industry for good.
Fifteenselected start-ups are offering a better future to the fashion industry. That is why they are actually being supported by the Fashion for Good-Plug and Play Accelerator through partners likeAdidas, C&A, Galeries Lafayette, Kering, Target and Zalando.
Algiknit, BioGlitz, circular.fashion, FLOCUS, Frumat, Good on You, Mango Materials, Nano Textile, Orange Fibre, PAPTIC, PlanetCare, Provenance, Reverse Resources, Scalable Garment Technologies and Style Lend represent varied supply chain areas -from alternative raw materials to new business models-. But, who are them? What kind of innovations are they offering?
A better future for fashion
Algiknit. It produces textile fibres extruded from kelp, a variety of seaweed. The extrusion process turns the biopolymer mixture into kelp-based thread that can be knitted or 3D printed to minimize waste. The final knitwear is biodegradable and can be dyed with natural pigments in a closed loop cycle.
BioGlitz. This company produces the world’s first biodegradable glitter. Based on a unique biodegradable formula made from eucalyptus tree extract, the eco-glitter is fully biodegradable, compostable and allows for the sustainable consumption of glitter without the environmental damage associated with micro plastics.
circular.fashion. It has created a software that interconnects circular design, circular retail models and closed loop recycling technologies enables fashion brands to design circular garments. Circular clothes are attributed an identification tag that orchestrates a reverse supply chain network of consumers, sorting and recycling companies to close the loop to regenerated textiles.
Flocus. The company produces natural yarns, fillings and fabrics made from kapok fibres. The kapok tree can be naturally grown without the use of pesticides and insecticide in arid soil not suitable for agricultural farming, offering a sustainable alternative to high water consumption natural fibre crops such as cotton.
Frumat. The brand uses apples to create a leather-like material. Apple pectin is an industrial waste product which can be used to create sustainable materials that are totally compostable whilst still being durable enough to create luxury accessories. The leathers can be dyed naturally and tanned without chemically intensive techniques.
Good on You. This mobile app provides ethical ratings for about 1,000 fashion brands rated on their impact on people, the planet and animals. It is built on a robust brand rating system which aggregates standards, certifications and publically available data sources into a simple, accessible 5-point score to promote transparency across the fashion industry and to allow customers to make conscious purchasing decisions.
Mango Materials. The company produces biodegradable bio-polyester that can be used as a sustainable alternative to the present polyester utilized in the fashion industry. Microfibres produced from the biopolyester can biodegraded in many environments, including landfills, wastewater treatment plants, and the oceans helping to prevent microfibre pollution and contributing to a closed-loop bio economy for the fashion industry.
Nano Textile. It offers a sustainable alternative to binder chemicals normally used to attach finishes onto a fabric. Its technology embeds fabric finishes directly into fabric using a process called Cavitation and can apply to a range of products such as antibacterial & antiodor finishes or water repellency. This protects the end-user and the environment from the leaking of hazardous chemicals.
Orange Fiber. This Italian company manufactures natural fabrics from citrus by-products. Orange Fiber is made by extracting the cellulose from the fibres that are discarded from the industrial pressing and processing of oranges. The fibre, through nanotechnology techniques, is enriched with citrus fruit essential oils, creating a unique and sustainable fabric.
PAPTIC. It manufactures bio-based alternative packaging materials that are made from sustainably sourced wood fibres. The material has the unique properties of paper and plastic commonly used in the retail sector, but with a much higher tear resistance than paper. The material can be recycled alongside cardboard.
PlanetCare. It has developed a microfibre filter to be integrated in washing machines, that can capture microplastics before they are released in wastewater. The system works on the microfiltration of water based on electrically charged fibres and membrane nanotechnology. This technology contributes to reducing microplastics pollution ending up in the ocean.
Provenance Biofabrics. Provenance bio-engineers offer a true leather equivalent by programming the self-assembly of collagen molecules the building blocks of leather. This next generation fabric delivers a more efficient and sustainable alternative to leather without harming animals.
Reverse Resources. This platform enables fashion brands and garment manufacturers to address pre-consumer waste for industrial upcycling. The Software as a Service (SaaS) platform allows fabric and garment factories to map and measure leftover fabrics and scraps so that these become traceable through their following life cycles. By mapping the waste material in the factory, these resources can eventually be reintroduced into the supply chain, limiting the use of virgin materials.
Scalable Garment Technologies Inc. SGTI has built a robotic knitting machine linked with 3D modelling software to make custom seamless knit garments. This new knitting technology enables digitization of the entire production process and on-demand manufacturing of custom seamless knit garments. This allows responsiveness to consumer demand while reducing waste.
Style Lend. It is a fashion rental marketplace. AI and machine learning is used to match users based on fit, as well as style. By renting out garments consumers can extend the life cycle of clothing and delay it from going into landfills.